Despite my uncertainty, I had a decent night in the couchette. Two others had joined us at Dresden, so the cabin was almost full and quite warm, but all was well. With five out if six bunks in use there wasn’t really anywhere to sit if we folded up the upper bunks, so we all just lay in bed until almost the end of the journey! We’d been brought a hot drink and a cereal bar earlier, and I finished off my bag of cherries, but I was still hungry, so found a cafe near the station and planned my day over a croissant.
Once more, the public transport was easy to negotiate and so I took a bus close to my accommodation and walked the rest of the way. I was staying in a hostel this time, probably the only time on this trip. I’ve had mixed experiences in hostels over the years, including meeting interesting people in quirky places to (accidentally) getting kicked in the head at 2am. This place was great, although I suspect I was easily the oldest person on the guest list.
I chucked my pack in a locker until I could check in properly, and went for a wander. Yet again, I focused on visiting Virtual caches, mainly because they tend to take you to interesting places. There was quite a lot to see in the area close to the hostel but I looked forward to the walking tour I’d booked into on the morning. I also attended a small geocaching event in the area organised by a visiting German cacher, along with a couple of others. Language was a problem though, so after a good deal of smiling, I moved on and continued my wandering. I had my first attempt at a padlock cache amid an enormous collection of ‘love locks‘ but was thwarted on this attempt.
By now it was time to check in, and I was glad to claim my bottom bunk and take a much-needed shower in my dorm. After settling in, I went for another wander and found a fabulous side street with a selection of street food vendors, also taking in a few more local caches and a drink.
I’d booked in for another walking tour the next morning. I’m finding these tips-only tours a great way to see the main sights of a city while also giving me some ideas for further exploration later. We gathered by yet another observation wheel, which I returned to in the afternoon, and had a brisk and informative walk around the old town. I also spotted the Retro Museum which bore similarities to the DDR museum in Berlin. There was a greater emphasis on the country’s military and space prowess, but also with a look at life for everyday people under Soviet rule, again with a healthy slice of irony.
The tour also took in the astounding parliament building, which dominates the waterfront, and the very moving ‘shoe memorial’ where iron replicas of shoes and boots mark where around 20,000 jews were shot into the Danube in the last years of the second world war. From here I could also see over the not-blue Danube into the Buda side of the city and decided to target that area for further exploration tomorrow. Another Virtual cache also brought me to the interesting Trianon Memorial where an eternal flame and the names of a myriad of engraved village and town names symbolise a nation torn apart.
Yet again, I was impressed by the range and quality of architecture. It’s interesting to look for various styles in each city as I travel. While there are many common elements, such as neo-classical and modern styles, there is also a strand of brutalist soviet-era building which, while not particularly pleasant to look at, also tells the story of Europe
I’d been on the road for a while now and so yet again domestic chores were calling me. Back at the hostel, where a tango class was in full flow, making the busy and bohemian common room unavailable, I sat in the bar while waiting for my washing too finish and then dry. Another wander, and chats with friends and family back home and it was soon time for bed again. My years of camping experience prepared me well for the dormitory experience- changing in the dark, putting on trousers lying down, taking everything with you that you’ll need in the night and first thing in the morning. If my roommates wondered why this old chap was staying in a ‘youth hostel’ they didn’t show it, and the whole experience was relatively easy and respectful.
The next morning I retraced my steps to the waterfront and joined a boat trip on the Danube. As in Berlin, this gave me a different angle on buildings that were now becoming familiar- the Cathedral, the parliament building among others. Another Virtual ensured that I looked carefully at the range of bridges linking the two sides of the city, including the impressive chain bridge among others.
After chatting with a group of locals on the boat, it was time to disembark. I walked bank over the chain bridge, and bought a ticket for the delightful funicular railway which took me up the the castle area just as the heavens opened. I sheltered under a sun canopy (!) for a good 40 minutes until the rain eased and I was able to wander over in time for the underwhelming Changing of the Guards ceremony along with an unnecessarily complicated Virtual.
I took the funicular back down and set off walking east along the river bank before climbing again, this time towards the citadel and some more stunning views of the city. I even stumbled upon an outdoor dance class! I’d been walking for a while now without a drink so I started to descend back towards the river, taking in a few caches on my route. I’ve tried not to let geocaching dominate this trip, but rather let it guide me at times and look for others on my path.
Crossing over the river again, I took a meandering route back to the hostel, looking for somewhere to eat as I went. The streets around the hostel area were crowded tonight and I was glad to find somewhere that would have me as a single diner. This was my last night in Budapest and so I packed up my bag once more and planned my final day.
I checked out at 10 the next morning, easily the earliest riser in our dorm. Dropping my pack into a locker once more, I walked along to the Metro and took a ride up to the enormous Place of Heroes.
As well as the obligatory Virtual, there were also some puzzle caches nearby that I was keen to find. As is often the case, this walk showed me places that I’d never have found otherwise- a hidden garden with statuary, an outdoor music park, a statue of ‘Anonymous’ among others.
Time was marching on, however, so I took the metro back into the centre, collected my pack and made my way to the station for the overnight sleeper to Bucharest. This was an altogether more comfortable journey and I was only only one in a three-bedded compartment. The bed was wider and softer than the couchette, and there was even a vanity sink and a power outlet just for me!
The long trip across Hungary and to the east of Romania went smoothly and, other than being woken by Romanian border guards for a passport check (my first since London; not sure why, as we were still in the Schengen area…) I slept well and looked forward to meeting Bethany, my daughter, in Bucharest.
AF Wright
June 2026
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